There are some watchmakers that I associate with specific mechanisms. It can be because their founder is inextricably tied to an invention, for example, Breguet replica and the tourbillon. Or it can be because a certain complication is omnipresent in the watchmaker's annual collections, popping up in various lines and leaving what feels like an indelible image in my mind.
The History
For as long as I've been interested in watches, I've associated IWC with the perpetual calendar, and more specifically, a very important late-20th-century take on it. A big part of IWC's own fairly recent history is steeped in the perpetual calendar. In the '80s, the company premiered a wristwatch perpetual calendar chronograph created by the legendary Kurt Klaus, who devised an elegant way to make this complication while avoiding the need for numerous, unsightly correctors.
The Case
The perpetual calendar has always felt very much at home to me in the stately and oversized Portugieser. This is a watch collection that connotes a kind of Teutonic gravitas and elegant durability in a watch landscape dominated by Swiss-French brands. Now we have a new version of the IWC perpetual calendar, and it has a smaller movement that allows for a very wearable replica IWC Portugieser Perpetual Calendar.
The watch is debuting in three versions, two gold, one steel, and we're taking close look at all of them today. The two versions featuring silver-plated dials are part of the core IWC collection, and the second gold piece with a blue dial is a boutique-only edition.
What distinguishes the IWC Portugieser Perpetual Calendar 42 replica from previous Portugieser Perpetual Calendars is the introduction of the mechanism to the 82000 caliber family. And while the smaller movement allows for a smaller case, it also has a different layout for the display than the one we've become accustomed to in the Portugieser.
The Dial
The moon phase that typically occupies a large spot at the 12 o'clock position and was often shown as a double moonphase, with displays for both the Northern and Southern Hemispheres, has migrated down to the six o'clock position to join the months, where they have always been. The date is still in the same sub-dial at three o'clock, only now sans power-reserve indicator, and the days are at 9 o'clock.
The layout is simple, classic, easy-to-read, and I think great-looking, even if the distinctiveness of previous IWC perpetuals feels a bit absent. Don't worry, though: IWC hasn't run away from its larger seven-day perpetual calendar with moon up top. There's a second version of this year's IWC Portugieser Perpetual Calendar replica, another boutique-only edition that clocks in at 44.2mm and retains a design that's become a classic in my book.
The Movement
The replica IWC Portugieser Perpetual Calendar 42 is actually slightly larger than its name indicates. The watch's diameter is 42.4mm, and its thickness is 13.8mm, which means that this is not a small watch by any means. As I've learned to expect from an IWC, this watch wears like a tough, well-built timepiece. The case is fairly thick, but it's not top-heavy, and the shape of the lugs gives me the sense they've been designed for stability.
This is an important factor, I think, particularly considering that the thickness of the watch approaches 14mm. If you've ever worn a thicker automatic watch, you might have experienced that feeling of wearing a wobbly top on your wrist, and this is not that.
Caliber 52610 has the hallmarks of a quality in-house automatic caliber from IWC. Most obvious is the custom rotor with the Probus Scafusia seal. It also has the highly efficient Pellaton winding system, an IWC specialty, and that system is equipped with extremely wear-resistant ceramic components. Beating at a standard 28,800 vph, it delivers 60 hours of power reserve, an adequate amount of time considering that it is an automatic.
The Conclusion
Many of the elements that characterize the flagship 40mm automatic version I wrote about earlier this week can be found in this new perpetual calendar. The applied numerals for the hours, the railroad chapter ring, the elegant feuille hands, and, of course, the round substantial-feeling case. Even the crown is ever-so-slightly big in relation to that case, a nod perhaps to the manually wound pocket watch origins of the early Portugieser.
As I look at this new perpetual calendar and consider that the previous version remains in production, and as I also look back at the 40mm automatic I reviewed recently and see that a seven-day auto which is 42.33mm in diameter is also still with us, it occurs to me that IWC is branching out and trying new sizes that seem to be more in line with what watch enthusiasts.
More Technical Data
The IWC Portugieser Perpetual Calendar replica. 42mm x 13.8mm case in either stainless steel or 5N gold, water resistant to 3 bar. Powered by the in-house automatic caliber 82650, beating at 28,800 vph and running in 46 jewels with 60 hours of power reserve. Pellaton winding system with durable ceramic components. Available in three different versions: ref. IW344203: stainless steel case, silver-plated dial, black alligator leather strap by Santoni, $22,900; ref. IW344202: 18-karat 5N gold case, silver-plated dial, brown alligator leather strap by Santoni, $32,900; ref. IW344205: 18-karat 5N gold case, blue dial, blue alligator leather strap by Santoni.
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